Any restaurant that can upstage arrogant celebrity chef Bobby Flay is worthy of praise. I stopped by Caracas tonight to sample the arepa that took the man down on his newest Food Network show, Throwdown with Bobby Flay. There’s usually a throng of people waiting outside the red vestibule at the 7th St. eatery. Lucky for me, 9:15 pm on a Sunday night is a pretty dead time to dine out. Other than me, the cooks, and the iconic Virgin María protruding from the wall, Caracas To-Go was empty. Its sister restaurant, Caracas Arepa Bar, is located next door and accommodates diners who want to stay a while and enjoy table service.

I ordered the arepa de pabellón ($6.75), which is a fried cornmeal pouch stuffed with shredded beef, black beans, sweet plantains, and cotija cheese. The food was delivered to me immediately (I really was the only one there). The arepa appears small but is stuffed to the brim and leaves you in a similar state. The beef was tender, the plantains subtly sweet, and the cheese salty and tangy. I’ve had the arepa de pollo ($5.75) in the past and would definitely suggest the pabellón instead. Its various flavors and textures add depth to the meal yet work harmoniously.

Photo by Allix Geneslaw